Complete Guide To Banff National Park

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Banff National Park, established in 1885, is Canada’s oldest national park. As one of our shuttle drivers informed us, it’s name comes from the Scottish region Banffshire. For over a hundred years it’s been one of the busiest tourist attractions in Canada, but there’s been a recent surge of popularity that seems to have slightly overwhelmed the region. So hopefully this page can provide some guidance about how best to avoid the insane crowds, but still experience everything that beautiful Banff has to offer.

Campgrounds

Our home base while exploring Banff was the Tunnel Mountain Village I campground. It’s primarily reserved for tents while Tunnel Mountain Village II down the road has space for trailers. Both are within a few kilometers of downtown Banff. The facilities were fine. Pretty good for the amount of people there, but the setting is fantastic. Most sites have great views of Mount Rundle (especially our site, C50) and there’s wildlife everywhere. We were especially fond of the elk herds that roamed through our site every day.

Other campgrounds we recommend in the Banff area are Two-Jack Lakeside and Lake Louise soft-side. Two-Jack Lakeside, as the name suggests, is right beside the stunning Two-Jack Lake. It’s also in close proximity to the town of Banff. If you’re looking to be closer to Lake Louise then I’d recommend the Lake Louise soft-side (tent) campground. It’s nearby the village of Lake Louise and features scenic mountain views. The only downfall is that the railway tracks are fairly close and you can hear them at night. Remember your ear plugs! 

Lake Louise

Obviously Lake Louise is the highlight of any trip to Banff. As of 2024, personal vehicles aren’t allowed to drive up and park at Lake Louise. You have to book a shuttle. We used Moraine Lake Bus Company and would highly recommend them to anyone visiting Lake Louise. Book online at least a few days in advance to make sure your seat is reserved. The shuttle picks you up at the Lake Louise Ski Resort and its only a ten minute drive up to the lake. Once you arrive its a quick walk to the lakeshore. 

The lakeshore is always packed with people trying to get a picture of one of the most recognizable views in Canada. The crystal blue waters and the massive Victoria Glacier looming between Mount Fairview (left) and Mount Whyte (right) never cease to amaze. If you aren’t much of a hiker you can follow the wide and flat trail around the right side of the lake. Or you can rent a canoe from the dock on the left side and go for a paddle. For those looking for more of a challenge, and to get away from the hordes of people, there’s quite a few hiking options. 

 

Fairview Summit
The only hike on the left side of the lake is the Fairview Summit trek. It’s a pretty intense 9.5 km out-and-back starting right at the lakeside with over 1000 meters of elevation gain. But the reward at the top is worth it. You can see all the way down to Lake Louise and there’s also 360 degree views of the surrounding Rockies.

Lake Agnes
On the right side of Lake Louise the Lake Agnes trail leads you 4 km up a series of switchbacks. On the way up you’ll pass by Mirror Lake. It’s a tranquil little pond surrounded by mountain peaks on the way up to Lake Agnes. 

Lake Agnes isn’t far after Mirror Lake. The trail is pretty steep, gaining 435 meters of elevation in a short distance, but its very wide and easily navigable. This route can be quite busy. Agnes is a gorgeous alpine lake with Mount St. Piran, Mount Niblock, and Mount Whyte looming overtop. An awesome spot to stop for lunch like we did. There’s also a teahouse there but be prepared to wait in line for an hour if you want a hot drink. 

The Big Beehive
From Lake Agnes there’s many hiking options. The Big Beehive is less than 2 km extra from Lake Agnes with about 280 meters of additional elevation. From the parking lot its a 10.7 km roundtrip with 715 meters of elevation gain. The trail circumnavigates the lake then heads straight up over top of it.

The Devils Thumb
In the same direction as the Big Beehive is the Devils Thumb Trail. It goes around the lake the same way but then splits off to the right. The Devils Thumb is more challenging as it’s an extra 3 km from Lake Agnes with an additional elevation gain of 500 meters. From the parking lot it’s a 12.7 km roundtrip with 940 meters of elevation gain.

Mount St. Piran
Another option is Mount St. Piran. It heads north from Lake Agnes then splits off from the Little Beehive trail. There’s a steep series of switchbacks up to the summit. It’s an extra 3 km from Lake Agnes with an additional 470 meters of elevation. From the parking lot its a 13 km roundtrip with 900 meters of elevation gain. You can also complete the St. Piran loop by heading west off the summit, then you’ll end up on the West side of Lake Agnes. It’s about the same distance to do the loop as the out-and-back.

The Little Beehive
Finally, there’s the Little Beehive. The other three options were covered in snow when we visited so we trekked the additional 1.5 km from Lake Agnes for phenomenal views of Lake Louise and the valley. From the parking lot its a 10.7 km roundtrip with 650 meters of elevation gain.

There’s a number of different lookouts as you keep traversing east along the ridgeline. Make sure to go all the way to end to get an incredible view of the Bow Valley. Looking back south you can see Mount Fairview towering above Lake Louise. Further west you can see the Big Beehive and the Devils Thumb just above Mirror Lake and Lake Agnes.

Plain of Six Glaciers
Lastly, there’s the Plain of Six Glaciers hike, totaling 14.6 km out-and-back with an elevation gain of 590 meters. The route follows the north shoreline of Lake Louise before climbing up towards Victoria Glacier. This hike isn’t nearly as popular as the others in the region which is nice if you prefer solitude. It also features great views of Lake Louise from the less-pictured west end. Watch out for avalanches in the winter and spring!

Moraine Lake

Nearby Lake Louise is the ever-so-slightly less busy Moraine Lake area. Known for its bright turquoise waters below the imposing Ten Peaks. Again, you’ll have to book a shuttle to get to Moraine Lake. We used Moraine Lake Bus Company for this trip as well and again were very happy with them. They even let us hop on an earlier bus than we had booked because we finished our hike quicker than anticipated. 

You don’t need to do an extensive hike to enjoy Moraine Lake. The Rockpile Trail starts from the parking lot and it’s only a few hundred meters to one of the most iconic viewpoints in Banff. This time around we didn’t get so lucky weather-wise, but there’s one picture below from a trip a few years ago when the sun was shining. 

Consolation Lakes
One of the best bang-for-your-buck hikes near Moraine Lake is Consolation Lakes. It’s only a 6.4 km roundtrip with an elevation gain of 270 meters. It’s a very family friendly hike until you get close to the lake where you have to navigate through a bit of a boulder garden. But that’s just part of the fun. The tranquil lake is a great place to stop for lunch and marvel at the surrounding peaks. It’s surprisingly not a very busy trail, so if you’re looking to escape the crowds this is a great option.

Sentinel Pass
If you have a little more time then Sentinel Pass is definitely the way to go. And if you’re lucky enough to visit in the fall when the larches turn color, this hike is an absolute must. Its an 11 km out-and-back trail with 750 meters of elevation gain. You’ll start near the shoreline of Moraine Lake before a series of switchbacks bring you up to Larch Valley. After a long gradual climb through the larches the trees disappear and you’ll pass Minnestima Lake before making the final push to Sentinel Pass. You’ll be greeted with astounding views of the ten peaks in the direction you came. If you look over the other side of the pass you’ll see Paradise Valley.

Canmore Area

Ha Ling
Outside of the popular Lake Louise and Moraine Lake areas this one is a favorite. Ha Ling is a 7.4 km out-and-back with 750 meters of elevation gain. Follow a winding mountain road west out of the town of Canmore to the large parking lot. You can also use this parking lot to access the East End of Rundle (EEOR) trail. We haven’t done the EEOR but have heard great things. Ha Ling starts out in with a long climb through the forest. A little over halfway up there’s a lookout to the north with great views of Mount Rundle.

After a little more forest walking there’s a few flights of stairs that bring you up above the tree line. From here on out the terrain is loose shale rock. Not too much further is the saddle, a great spot to stop and take pictures. If you’re short on time you can stop here. The views of Canmore, the Bow Valley, and surrounding mountains are pretty similar from the actual Ha Ling peak, which is only a few hundred meters further along the ridge. 

Grassi Lakes
If you’re looking for a more family friendly hike then Grassi Lakes is a good choice. However, because of its accessibility (and beauty of course) it can get really busy. There’s a small parking lot near the trailhead but it fills up quickly in the summer months. There’s an overflow lot across the road which adds 400 meters or so to the hike. Without the extra walk to the trailhead its 3.5 km with an elevation gain of 160 meters. It starts out as a gradual incline trail through the woods before getting steeper and then eventually transitioning to stairs. About halfway up there’s a waterfall and a great lookout over the town of Canmore.

A few more flights of stairs later you’ll see the Grassi Lakes. There’s two different small lakes that both have crazy colors.

Banff Trail Riders
Another underrated experience is horseback riding around the Banff/Canmore area with Banff Trail Riders. We chose the Bow River route which was only an hour or so, but was still super interesting. Even if you’ve never ridden before they teach you everything you need to know and make sure you are comfortable with the horse you’re riding. Then you take off single file with a guide at the front and back of the group. The horses are all so friendly and well-trained so it’s a super easy and relaxing ride. They have lots of trail ride options ranging from an hour to multiple days.

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